In addition to the expected designers (Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Atelier Versace, etc) there were a number of first timers to this year's Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week including Zuhair Murad and Xuan.
Here are some of my favorite looks
Known for dressing many of Hollywood's leading ladies, Zuhair Murad red carpet worthy gowns were a welcome addition to this year's shows.
XUAN is the fashion label of Dutch-Vietnamese designer Xuan-Thu Nguyen. The design house is based in Paris with production in France and Holland. Nguyen is best known for the evocative stories that her clothes tell. Their aesthetic and construction work together to convey the intimacy, surprise and fragility that underlie her personal experiences.
Showstopper ballgowns made of sprays of pleated tulle with huge sweeping trains, 18th-century references aplenty, especially in the romantic silk faille evening dresses with gardenia or lily of the valley embroideries. This was hands down one of my favorite collections!
Karl Lagerfeld showed skirts shaped like petals, cocoon like capes and outfits bedecked in a garden’s worth of blooms.
“I tried to break the codes of high fashion, taking away the idea that everything has to be united and hang together...trying to explore a new concept that comes through in wrong volumes and unorthodox colours that when put together have their own charm.” designer Pierpaolo Picciolo said.
A lean silhouette dominated in jackets and skirts in mixed of icy pastels through a range of exquisite eveningwear.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Christmas in July? While attendees were sweltering the models paraded in oversize ski sweaters, cropped down vests and velvet ski pants.
"It’s a vision of a revived Parisian woman, it is all about cut, shapes, silhouettes."Karl Lagerfeld said when describing his latest collection for Chanel. Mixed classic Coco Chanel style hats and pre-World War I skinny-bodied jackets with dramatic touches such as emphatic coats (belling to the ankle or sheared above the knee) great arcing shoulders and bell-shaped skirts in signature Chanel tweed were worn by many of the runway models.
Elsa Schiaparelli moved in a circle of creative women: the writer Anaïs Nin, the photographer Lee Miller, the heiress and political activist Nancy Cunard.
“I see their era as the beginning of the liberation of women,” said Bertrand Guyon, Creative Director for the brand. What conveyed those concepts best here were his evening dresses, which were alluring in their unstructured lightness.
For her sophomore collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri set out to explore many of blue’s associations, from blue as the hue of the Virgin Mary and the sky to its association with workwear and practical clothing.